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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect renowned high-end venues. However, situated high among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small restaurant achieving such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.